Sunday 8 June 2014

Towers in the Park - Stratford 2014

Animated façades of apartment blocks, nine to ten storeys high, dominated by the interplay of balconies and recesses face out onto a green sward which is actually a wildflower meadow punctuated with a few trees, partly concealing the golden cheese grater façade of the car park and the concealed HS1 line that passes through Stratford International Station set below street level in a concrete channel. Moving up the road to Stratford International Railway station, a kind of understated entrance onto the direct high-speed link to Europe. The station sits on a quiet street, really part of the landscape, which is busy with pedestrians and quiet in terms of vehicular traffic. Punctuated with park benches facing into the meadows and the facades of the Apartment blocks. Behind very colourful site hoardings, and ‘Energy Saver’ portakabins, a new development emerges, named East Village boasting ‘Everyday Living’ and a ‘World Class School’ to compliment the former athletes village.

Large sculptures occupy the meadows depicting ground staff, the thousands of volunteers that made hosting the games possible. Wandering along the street and passing through the meadows with dense clusters of trees, cherry, oak, silver birch, and glimpses of the apartment blocks through the clearings give a sense of a young Central Park. Fine gravel footpaths, stone paving augmented with kerb level lighting, cycle stands and park benches, meandering paths through planted zones with water gardens create a desirable environment to live. Le Corbusier’s towers in the park done right perhaps? Signs within the park identify destinations not only in direction but in terms of walking time in minutes, giving a very real sense that everything is well connected and within easy reach. Cycle lanes are everywhere and are being used including a number of the Barclays bikes knows by locals as Boris Bikes after the current Mayor although there does not seem to be anywhere to procure one nearby.

Crossing a heavy looking concrete bridge carrying the road over HS1, and joining the road that is alive with the red London Bus and the cyclist and a few delivery vehicles, the street facing onto John Lewis is beginning to take on a sense of place as a zone of arrival at the entrance to the Park. Security fences mark areas where work is still in progress. The black and grey clouds make for a dramatic backdrop to the bright colours of the fairground that sits within a gated zone, temporary structures that make up rides, shooting galleries and candy floss stands evoke memories of summers on the English Riviera, where the travelling city would arrive and stay for a few days in a haze of dust and diesel exhaust as the vintage vehicles labour to keep the rides moving, the lights flashing and the music blaring. This one seems to be quiet though, gates locked and rides dormant, set to come alive in the afternoon.  

At the Park entrance, Hadid’s Aquatics Centre on Left, Populous’ Stadium directly ahead and a large fine gravel zone that is completely alive, cycles, scooters and numerous groups walking around and looking, people actually enjoying being in an urban space. The distinctive wave form of the aquatics centre, freed from the stadium seating that was installed for the Olympics, takes on a serene sculptural quality embedded in the very green landscape, very different from the pictures broadcast during the games.

Crossing the River Lea on passing the Aquatics Centre, the stadium still in the process of transition from games mode to post games mode in preparation for the Rugby World Cup 2015, an army of workers operating on scaffolding appear to be installing large box like structures onto the huge white steel truss that supported the tensile fabric canopy, the scaffolding on multiple levels, just emphasise how incredibly large the stadium is. The raw underside of the concrete terraces supported on black steel structure give an elegant simplicity that was previously concealed behind the ‘wrap’ that was so striking on the pictures from the games.

The plaza in front of the Stadium is animated with dancing water jets and a few very soggy children, who try to run between the jets and getting caught in them amongst squeals of excitement. Beyond, in a dense ring of trees is the ‘Orbit’ a red steel structure, resembling a combination between a 'Helter Skelter' and roller coaster, engineered by Cecil Balmond, a dramatic landmark when viewed from a distance, that seems to move and change as its aspect changes with the direction of approach. Standing almost beneath the observation platform and looking suddenly the whole whacky sculpture makes sense, the observation platform seems to be floating in air as its forces are distributed along the spiral as opposed to straight down which is the conventional fashion. A chance view of the skyline captured between the spiral and the stadium frames the towers of Canary Wharf and the length of the journey becomes apparent, who could imagine this view from standing on the railway sidings surrounded by industrial decay twenty years ago when Canary Wharf was a solitary tower seemingly uprooted from New York and divorced from its urban context? The entry pavilion to The Orbit white planes floating on a black base makes a very cool intervention into the park calmly contrasting with the drama behind.


A cycle expo and people riding every type of cycle in the shadow of the orbit, tandems, trikes, penny farthings, bikes with large child seats in a kind of two wheeled rickshaw and a curious four wheeled cycling contraption that seats six people as though around an oval table, all pedalling in unison. All around this part of the park, the skyline is dominated by towers, the distant landmarks of Canary Wharf, and the closer multi coloured glass clad apartment towers give a very real sense of a new city centre growing out of the industrial ruins.